Fashion Historian Fact Checks A League of Their Own's Wardrobe | Glamour

- [Narrator] This is Dottie Hinson. You probably know her from the movie "A League of Their Own." You may remember this look, and this look. But are they accurate? We got this fashion historian. - Hi, I'm Raissa Bretana and I'm a fashion historian. - [Narrator] To walk us through what this movie got right and what it got mostly right about these looks. First, let's establish the setting. - The film opens in 1943 and tells the story of the All-American Girls Professional Baseball League, which was formed to keep baseball in the public eye when men were off fighting during World War II. Many women took up jobs on the home front that were traditionally held by men. At one point in the film, we see a poster that says, "Find your war job," which was typical messaging for the time. - [Narrator] So, where does our story start? - A scout discovers Dottie and her sister, Kit, in their small hometown in Oregon before whisking them away to Chicago for the league tryouts. The sisters are chosen to play for the Rockford Peaches, which was a real team based out of Rockford, Illinois. - [Narrator] Let's get into the looks. First up, the Rockford Peaches uniform. - Female players were recruited from amateur softball leagues from around the country. The women were selected not only for their athletic ability, but also their looks. In the film, Marla, who is a phenomenal ball player, almost doesn't make it to the tryouts because she doesn't fit the desired look. - You mean you ain't taking her 'cause she ain't pretty? - It was of utmost importance to the league's founders that the players be conventionally attractive, distinctly feminine, and non-threatening. - You can not only play ball, but you're kind of a dolly. That's what we're looking for. - As you might have already guessed, the league's owners were all men. Women's baseball uniforms were modeled after athletic attire for other popular sports, like tennis, figure skating, and field hockey. These short tunics were ultimately designed for style and appeal, and not necessarily comfort and practicality. - [Narrator] Let's draw this look layer by layer. First up, undergarments. - Throughout the 1940s, the bra evolved to have pointier cups. Players would've likely worn a simple cotton bra without an underwire, which would've been the most comfortable and easy to wash, but not necessarily the best for wicking sweat and moisture. The sports bra as we know it was not invented until the mid 1970s, a time known as the running revolution, AKA when jogging became a popular form of exercise. In terms of underwear in the 1940s, panty girdles were the norm, though panty girdles were generally constricting and not conducive for playing sports. Instead, the players likely would've worn knit high-wasted briefs, which had stretch and allowed for greater ease of movement. - [Narrator] Next, the shorts. - Women's baseball uniforms were worn with a pair of coordinating satin shorts. These were presumably worn for modesty because they didn't exactly provide much protection when sliding into the bases. As a result, we see players in the film sustain injuries to their bare thighs and legs. This was a departure from the men's major league uniforms, which featured knee-length trousers, and those offered significantly more protection on the field. - [Narrator] And then, the tunic and belt. - The Peaches uniform was a short-skirted flared tunic made of wool. This was nearly identical to the uniform worn by the actual Rockford Peaches. The actual uniforms for the league were designed by the Wrigley company's art director, Otis Shepard, in collaboration with Mrs. Wrigley and Ann Harnett, who was the first player signed to the league. In the film, we see Ann Harnett modeling said uniform to a not-so-enthusiastic crowd of newly-recruited players. A waist-defining belt in a contrasting color ensured that the uniforms fell in line with the fashionable silhouette of the era. Each city had a distinctive patch on the chest modeled after their city's seal, as well as the official league logo on the left sleeve. There's an obvious contrast between the major league's uniform and those worn by Dottie and Kit when playing for their hometown team. This one-piece uniform offers more protection, and seems to be more practical and less overtly feminine. This is because they weren't governed by the strict rules of the league. - [Narrator] Moving on to the socks. - The players wore knee-high socks in a coordinating color that matched the belt. For the Rockford Peaches, the accent color was red. These socks would've been made of knitted wool and offered protection to the lower part of the leg. One important detail we see in the film is the layering of the stir up-style sock over a thinner white stocking. This is accurate and these double socks were standard for both men and women in professional leagues. - [Narrator] Next up, the shoes. - Cleats were worn by both men and women on the baseball field. Players in the film sported brown leather shoes, which is accurate for the time period. Cleats were made of leather and traditionally were black or dark brown. Spikes or studs were attached to the soles to provide additional traction to players as they ran on the grass or dirt. It wasn't until 1967 that the Kansas City A's wore the first ever white baseball shoes. - [Narrator] And then, the baseball cap. - A matching baseball cap completed any ball player's look. Stitched brims became the norm for baseball caps in the early 20th century. This helped the brim retain its shape and act as a visor to shield the player's eyes against the sun. In the women's league, the soft fabric crown had an elastic band at the back, which made the caps one-size-fits-all. Dottie plays catcher and often wears her cap backwards to accommodate her catcher's mask. - [Narrator] Lastly, hair and makeup. - During spring training, the players were required to attend charm school, which was run by the renowned beauty industry mogul, Helena Rubinstein. There, they learned everything from how to do specific hairstyles to which shades of lipstick to wear. They also learned about posture and etiquette. - The hair, soften and shorten. - Looking prim and proper was par for the course for the All-American girl ball player. Each player received an official All-American Girls Baseball League beauty kit, which included cleansing cream, astringent, face powder, lipstick, rouge, deodorant, hand lotion, and body hair remover. The charm school guide provided very detailed instructions when it came to lipstick application. There are several moments when we see Dottie looking understandably disheveled on the field. While this is reasonable for someone playing sports, this could be considered inaccurate, as looking unkempt likely would've resulted in suspension. In fact, players were expected to reapply and refresh their makeup throughout their games. Any violation to the league's Rules of Conduct would have resulted in a fine of for the first offense, for the second, and suspension for the third. - [Narrator] So, here's what Dottie would've looked like compared to what she wore in the film. Pretty much exactly accurate. Let's move on to the second look. - When her husband unexpectedly returns from the war, Dottie decides to leave the team ahead of the playoffs in order to return home to Oregon with him. This costume marks a pivotal moment when Dottie has to contend with her dual identity as a dutiful wartime wife and a celebrated baseball player. We see her wearing a fashionable ensemble that is a standout amongst her civilian looks. Throughout the film, we see her wearing tasteful ensembles that are not overly stylish for the period, which makes sense because the league's Rules of Conduct also governed what the players could wear off the field. As with the other regulations, the priority with the clothing was neatness and feminine appeal. - [Narrator] Let's get into the layers. First up, undergarments - Because she doesn't need to be particularly active in this ensemble, we can assume that Dottie is wearing a standard brassiere and panty girdle. During the 1940s, the bra would likely be made of rayon satin and the cups would form a moderate point. However, the cone shape would become more extreme towards the end of the decade and into the 1950s. Another alternative would've been the long line bra, which extended down to cover the ribcage. The panty girdle was worn to shape the body into the fashionable silhouette, which during this period included a nipped waistline and slender hips. - [Narrator] Next, stockings. - For this civilian look, it would've made sense for Dottie to be wearing stockings. They were the norm for everyday attire and we actually see one of the players removing them in the locker room before a game. These stockings would be sheer, nude-colored, and made of nylon. Nylon was a synthetic fiber prized for its strength and its sheerness. It revolutionized the hosiery industry and nylon stockings were wildly popular when they became commercially available in 1940. Still, it is totally plausible for Dottie to not be wearing nylon stockings in 1943 because during World War II, nylon production was diverted to the war effort, which made stockings a lot more difficult to obtain. - [Narrator] Now, Dottie's skirt and blouse. - Dottie's off-the-field wardrobe consists of interchangeable blouses and skirts. This was in accordance with the charm school's recommendation for simple clothes that were easily laundered and packable for road trips. Dottie sometimes pairs her light-colored blouses with cardigan sweaters, but they could also be worn alone or underneath a suit jacket. Due to wartime fabric restrictions, skirts became more narrow and hems were shortened to just below the knee. Throughout the film, we see the other players wearing similar ensembles. Although it's important to note that smoking was not allowed for women in the league. Even though it wasn't unusual for women to wear slacks for sporting or leisure activities, it was strictly forbidden for them to be wearing them at any point of the season, which makes this look inaccurate. - [Narrator] And then, the jacket. - Dottie wears a taupe tailored sports jacket with broad padded shoulders, a defining hallmark of 1940s fashion. Coordinating suits were standard in women's dress practices and the league's charm school guide recommended that players travel with a dark-colored suit made of a material that was not easily crushed. Tailored suits and sports jackets were typically made of wool, and Dottie's would likely be lightweight given the season. - [Narrator] And now, her shoes. - Dottie wears two-toned saddle shoes with white bobby socks, which would've been appropriate for casual wear and permitted in the Rules of Conduct. Players were, however, required to have at least one pair of formal shoes to be worn for social functions and dressier occasions. If Dottie were wearing stockings with this ensemble, it would've made sense for her to wear leather pumps or heeled oxfords. In fact, we see Kit wearing dress shoes in the charm school scene. - [Narrator] And let's not forget hair and makeup. - Dottie has her curls arranged in a more elaborate hairstyle than usual, which signals a distinct shift of her character's priorities. Throughout the film, we see the girls using various overnight hair curling methods, which makes sense because they wouldn't have been able to get their hair regularly set at a salon. At-home hair care became more common during the war. Some fashionable hairstyles in the 1940s included the page boy, the pompadour, and victory rolls. At one point, we see Dottie with her hair covered in a scarf, presumably because she has it set in pin curls or rollers for the night. Dottie's makeup is relatively understated in this scene, but she still wears the regulation lipstick required by the league. Wearing nail polish may not necessarily be right for Dottie's character, but it was a common practice for wartime women who wanted to retain a touch of femininity. - [Narrator] But last and not least, the accessories. - Dottie wears a fashionable hat that elevates her ensemble. It has a shallow crown and slightly asymmetrical brim, and is secured at the back with a hat pin. Hats during this period were often worn at a tilted angle with the brim coming down over one eye, like we see with the yellow hat that she wears after the final game. - [Narrator] So, this is what Dottie wore compared to what she would've worn. So, overall, how did the film do? Final thoughts? - During World War II, American women proved themselves to be strong, formidable members of society. As a result, there was a persistent tension between aesthetics and practicality. This movie provided a unique challenge to the costume designer to consider a history with so many documented rules and regulations, while also not getting too caught up in the details and losing sight of the story. Ultimately, the costumes in "A League of Their Own" aren't necessarily high fashion, but they do perfectly illustrate the tension and pressure that many women in the league faced.