- [Narrator] This is Dottie Hinson.
You probably know her from the movie
"A League of Their Own."
You may remember this look,
and this look.
But are they accurate?
We got this fashion historian.
- Hi, I'm Raissa Bretana
and I'm a fashion historian.
- [Narrator] To walk us through
what this movie got right
and what it got mostly
right about these looks.
First, let's establish the setting.
- The film opens in
1943 and tells the story
of the All-American Girls
Professional Baseball League,
which was formed to keep
baseball in the public eye
when men were off fighting
during World War II.
Many women took up jobs on the home front
that were traditionally held by men.
At one point in the film,
we see a poster that says,
"Find your war job,"
which was typical messaging for the time.
- [Narrator] So, where
does our story start?
- A scout discovers Dottie
and her sister, Kit,
in their small hometown in Oregon
before whisking them away to
Chicago for the league tryouts.
The sisters are chosen to
play for the Rockford Peaches,
which was a real team based
out of Rockford, Illinois.
- [Narrator] Let's get into the looks.
First up, the Rockford Peaches uniform.
- Female players were recruited
from amateur softball leagues
from around the country.
The women were selected not
only for their athletic ability,
but also their looks.
In the film, Marla, who is
a phenomenal ball player,
almost doesn't make it to the tryouts
because she doesn't fit the desired look.
- You mean you ain't taking
her 'cause she ain't pretty?
- It was of utmost importance
to the league's founders
that the players be
conventionally attractive,
distinctly feminine, and non-threatening.
- You can not only play ball,
but you're kind of a dolly.
That's what we're looking for.
- As you might have already guessed,
the league's owners were all men.
Women's baseball uniforms were
modeled after athletic attire
for other popular sports,
like tennis, figure
skating, and field hockey.
These short tunics were
ultimately designed
for style and appeal,
and not necessarily
comfort and practicality.
- [Narrator] Let's draw
this look layer by layer.
First up, undergarments.
- Throughout the 1940s,
the bra evolved to have pointier cups.
Players would've likely
worn a simple cotton bra
without an underwire,
which would've been the most
comfortable and easy to wash,
but not necessarily the best
for wicking sweat and moisture.
The sports bra as we
know it was not invented
until the mid 1970s,
a time known as the running revolution,
AKA when jogging became a
popular form of exercise.
In terms of underwear in the 1940s,
panty girdles were the norm,
though panty girdles were
generally constricting
and not conducive for playing sports.
Instead, the players likely would've worn
knit high-wasted briefs,
which had stretch and allowed
for greater ease of movement.
- [Narrator] Next, the shorts.
- Women's baseball uniforms
were worn with a pair of
coordinating satin shorts.
These were presumably worn for modesty
because they didn't exactly
provide much protection
when sliding into the bases.
As a result, we see players
in the film sustain injuries
to their bare thighs and legs.
This was a departure from the
men's major league uniforms,
which featured knee-length trousers,
and those offered
significantly more protection
on the field.
- [Narrator] And then, the tunic and belt.
- The Peaches uniform was a
short-skirted flared tunic
made of wool.
This was nearly identical
to the uniform worn by the
actual Rockford Peaches.
The actual uniforms for
the league were designed
by the Wrigley company's
art director, Otis Shepard,
in collaboration with Mrs.
Wrigley and Ann Harnett,
who was the first player
signed to the league.
In the film, we see Ann
Harnett modeling said uniform
to a not-so-enthusiastic crowd
of newly-recruited players.
A waist-defining belt
in a contrasting color
ensured that the uniforms fell in line
with the fashionable
silhouette of the era.
Each city had a distinctive
patch on the chest
modeled after their city's seal,
as well as the official league
logo on the left sleeve.
There's an obvious contrast
between the major league's uniform
and those worn by Dottie and Kit
when playing for their hometown team.
This one-piece uniform
offers more protection,
and seems to be more practical
and less overtly feminine.
This is because they weren't governed
by the strict rules of the league.
- [Narrator] Moving on to the socks.
- The players wore knee-high
socks in a coordinating color
that matched the belt.
For the Rockford Peaches,
the accent color was red.
These socks would've
been made of knitted wool
and offered protection to
the lower part of the leg.
One important detail we see in the film
is the layering of the stir up-style sock
over a thinner white stocking.
This is accurate and these
double socks were standard
for both men and women
in professional leagues.
- [Narrator] Next up, the shoes.
- Cleats were worn by both men and women
on the baseball field.
Players in the film sported
brown leather shoes,
which is accurate for the time period.
Cleats were made of leather
and traditionally were
black or dark brown.
Spikes or studs were attached to the soles
to provide additional traction to players
as they ran on the grass or dirt.
It wasn't until 1967
that the Kansas City A's
wore the first ever white baseball shoes.
- [Narrator] And then, the baseball cap.
- A matching baseball cap
completed any ball player's look.
Stitched brims became the
norm for baseball caps
in the early 20th century.
This helped the brim retain its shape
and act as a visor to
shield the player's eyes
against the sun.
In the women's league,
the soft fabric crown had
an elastic band at the back,
which made the caps one-size-fits-all.
Dottie plays catcher and
often wears her cap backwards
to accommodate her catcher's mask.
- [Narrator] Lastly, hair and makeup.
- During spring training,
the players were required
to attend charm school,
which was run by the renowned
beauty industry mogul,
Helena Rubinstein.
There, they learned everything
from how to do specific hairstyles
to which shades of lipstick to wear.
They also learned about
posture and etiquette.
- The hair, soften and shorten.
- Looking prim and proper
was par for the course
for the All-American girl ball player.
Each player received an official
All-American Girls
Baseball League beauty kit,
which included cleansing
cream, astringent,
face powder, lipstick, rouge, deodorant,
hand lotion, and body hair remover.
The charm school guide provided
very detailed instructions
when it came to lipstick application.
There are several moments
when we see Dottie looking
understandably disheveled
on the field.
While this is reasonable
for someone playing sports,
this could be considered inaccurate,
as looking unkempt likely
would've resulted in suspension.
In fact, players were expected to reapply
and refresh their makeup
throughout their games.
Any violation to the
league's Rules of Conduct
would have resulted in a fine
of for the first offense,
for the second,
and suspension for the third.
- [Narrator] So, here's what
Dottie would've looked like
compared to what she wore in the film.
Pretty much exactly accurate.
Let's move on to the second look.
- When her husband unexpectedly
returns from the war,
Dottie decides to leave the
team ahead of the playoffs
in order to return home
to Oregon with him.
This costume marks a pivotal moment
when Dottie has to contend
with her dual identity
as a dutiful wartime wife and
a celebrated baseball player.
We see her wearing a fashionable ensemble
that is a standout amongst
her civilian looks.
Throughout the film, we see
her wearing tasteful ensembles
that are not overly
stylish for the period,
which makes sense because
the league's Rules of Conduct
also governed what the players
could wear off the field.
As with the other regulations,
the priority with the
clothing was neatness
and feminine appeal.
- [Narrator] Let's get into the layers.
First up, undergarments
- Because she doesn't need
to be particularly active
in this ensemble,
we can assume that Dottie is wearing
a standard brassiere and panty girdle.
During the 1940s,
the bra would likely
be made of rayon satin
and the cups would form a moderate point.
However, the cone shape
would become more extreme
towards the end of the
decade and into the 1950s.
Another alternative would've
been the long line bra,
which extended down to cover the ribcage.
The panty girdle was
worn to shape the body
into the fashionable silhouette,
which during this period
included a nipped waistline
and slender hips.
- [Narrator] Next, stockings.
- For this civilian look,
it would've made sense for
Dottie to be wearing stockings.
They were the norm for everyday attire
and we actually see one of
the players removing them
in the locker room before a game.
These stockings would
be sheer, nude-colored,
and made of nylon.
Nylon was a synthetic fiber
prized for its strength and its sheerness.
It revolutionized the hosiery industry
and nylon stockings were wildly popular
when they became commercially
available in 1940.
Still, it is totally plausible for Dottie
to not be wearing nylon stockings in 1943
because during World War II,
nylon production was
diverted to the war effort,
which made stockings a lot
more difficult to obtain.
- [Narrator] Now,
Dottie's skirt and blouse.
- Dottie's off-the-field wardrobe
consists of interchangeable
blouses and skirts.
This was in accordance
with the charm school's
recommendation for simple clothes
that were easily laundered
and packable for road trips.
Dottie sometimes pairs
her light-colored blouses
with cardigan sweaters,
but they could also be worn alone
or underneath a suit jacket.
Due to wartime fabric restrictions,
skirts became more narrow
and hems were shortened
to just below the knee.
Throughout the film,
we see the other players
wearing similar ensembles.
Although it's important to note
that smoking was not allowed
for women in the league.
Even though it wasn't unusual
for women to wear slacks
for sporting or leisure activities,
it was strictly forbidden
for them to be wearing them
at any point of the season,
which makes this look inaccurate.
- [Narrator] And then, the jacket.
- Dottie wears a taupe
tailored sports jacket
with broad padded shoulders,
a defining hallmark of 1940s fashion.
Coordinating suits were standard
in women's dress practices
and the league's charm school guide
recommended that players
travel with a dark-colored suit
made of a material that
was not easily crushed.
Tailored suits and sports jackets
were typically made of wool,
and Dottie's would likely be
lightweight given the season.
- [Narrator] And now, her shoes.
- Dottie wears two-toned saddle shoes
with white bobby socks,
which would've been
appropriate for casual wear
and permitted in the Rules of Conduct.
Players were, however, required
to have at least one pair
of formal shoes to be
worn for social functions
and dressier occasions.
If Dottie were wearing
stockings with this ensemble,
it would've made sense for
her to wear leather pumps
or heeled oxfords.
In fact, we see Kit wearing dress shoes
in the charm school scene.
- [Narrator] And let's not
forget hair and makeup.
- Dottie has her curls arranged
in a more elaborate hairstyle than usual,
which signals a distinct shift
of her character's priorities.
Throughout the film,
we see the girls using
various overnight hair curling methods,
which makes sense because
they wouldn't have been able
to get their hair
regularly set at a salon.
At-home hair care became
more common during the war.
Some fashionable hairstyles in the 1940s
included the page boy, the
pompadour, and victory rolls.
At one point,
we see Dottie with her
hair covered in a scarf,
presumably because she has it
set in pin curls or rollers
for the night.
Dottie's makeup is relatively
understated in this scene,
but she still wears
the regulation lipstick
required by the league.
Wearing nail polish may
not necessarily be right
for Dottie's character,
but it was a common
practice for wartime women
who wanted to retain
a touch of femininity.
- [Narrator] But last and
not least, the accessories.
- Dottie wears a fashionable
hat that elevates her ensemble.
It has a shallow crown and
slightly asymmetrical brim,
and is secured at the back with a hat pin.
Hats during this period were
often worn at a tilted angle
with the brim coming down over one eye,
like we see with the
yellow hat that she wears
after the final game.
- [Narrator] So, this is what Dottie wore
compared to what she would've worn.
So, overall, how did the film do?
Final thoughts?
- During World War II,
American women proved
themselves to be strong,
formidable members of society.
As a result, there was
a persistent tension
between aesthetics and practicality.
This movie provided a unique challenge
to the costume designer
to consider a history
with so many documented
rules and regulations,
while also not getting too
caught up in the details
and losing sight of the story.
Ultimately, the costumes
in "A League of Their Own"
aren't necessarily high fashion,
but they do perfectly illustrate
the tension and pressure
that many women in the league faced.
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